The nerve center of Hwy-13’s sinuous trip through the Apostle Islands region is the diminutive, laid-back resort village of Bayfield (pop. 775). Bayfield itself dates from 1856 and looks at first glance about as Lilliputian as you can get, with a curvy (10 mph on the corners) narrow road winding beside impeccably tailored cottages and modest local-brownstone mansions. Virtually every hairpin turn offers an outstanding glimpse of the Apostle Islands and the boats plying the waters, especially on the far northern edge of town. While the waterfront area draws most visitors, the best views of the town and lake can be had from the blocks of dainty Victorian homes that line the hills above.
There are plenty of classy or quaint places to stay in Bayfield, from cottages and motels to the ritzy Old Rittenhouse Inn ($99–249; 715/779-5111), at 301 Rittenhouse Avenue, which is famed for its comfy rooms and multi-course gastronomic feasts. Hearty meals for the common man and woman have been served up since the Civil War at Greunke’s (715/779-5480), across from the marina at 17 Rittenhouse Avenue, which is famous throughout the state for its whitefish livers, weekend fish boils, and generally funky feel. From the marina, there are also plenty of ferries (windsleds over the ice in winter!) to Madeline Island or some of the Apostle Islands, which are sprinkled out to the north across the chilly waters of Lake Superior. The HQ of the Apostle Islands National Seashore (daily; 715/779-3397), located in the old Bayfield Town Hall, offers the best introduction to these undeveloped islands, which are served by the Apostle Island Cruise Service (715/779-3925). The islands offer hiking trails, photogenic lighthouses, and wilderness camping. If you don’t have time for an extended visit, you can hike along the Lakeshore Trail on the mainland, which runs along the northern tip of the Bayfield Peninsula, starting from Little Sand Bay Visitor Center, midway between Cornucopia and Red Cliff.
The Bayfield visitors bureau (715/779-3335) has complete listings of things to do and places to stay in the Apostle Islands area.
South of Bayfield, Washburn is a pleasant little community, less pretty than Bayfield, perhaps, but with cheaper accommodations: Try the Super 8 ($40–75; 715/373-5671). Washburn also has a great road-food restaurant: It’s a Small World (715/373-5177), on Hwy-13 at the heart of town. The menu changes constantly, reflecting different regional cuisines, but always includes some veggie-friendly choices, plus great big breakfasts and a chance to sample the locally famous Oddball Burger. To work off some of the calories, downtown Washburn’s parks offer great lake vistas and a lakeshore walking trail.
