The nearest thing to an urban center in northwestern Montana, Kalispell (pop. 14,223) spreads across the northern Flathead Valley at the junction of the Stillwater, Whitefish, and Flathead Rivers. Cut by two main thoroughfares, east–west US-2 and north–south US-93, it ain’t quaint by any stretch of the imagination; at first glance it looks like yet another lumber mill-and-mining town, but the historic downtown area is full of interesting spots, such as the engaging Hockaday Center for the Arts (closed Sun, Mon.; $5), housed in the old Carnegie Library on 3rd Street, two blocks east of Main Street (US-93). Another few blocks east stands the impressive, perfectly preserved Conrad Mansion, built by pioneer trader and Kalispell founder Charles Conrad in 1895 and now open for guided tours (daily in summer; $7; 406/755-2166).

  Breakfasts don’t get much better than those served at Norm’s News (406/756-5446), a historic soda fountain luncheonette at 34 Main Street where you can also get killer milk shakes and a wide variety of newspapers and magazines; upstairs is the old Kalispell Opera House. Kalispell also has an above-average range of taverns, including the venerable Moose’s Saloon (406/755-2337), near the junction of US-2 and US-93 at 173 N. Main Street, famous for pizza and occasional live music.

  There are the usual national motels, but the place to stay in Kalispell is the Kalispell Grand Hotel ($65 and up; 406/755-8100 or 800/858-7422), a conveniently located historic downtown hotel at 100 Main Street with nice, clean rooms.

  For more information, contact the visitors center (406/756-9091 or 800/543-3105), on Main Street (US-93) at the south edge of town.