South of Missoula toward the Idaho border, US-93 runs along the banks of the beautiful Bitterroot River through a broad valley bordered by parallel ridges of 8,000-foot peaks. Once you get past the log-home manufacturers and tract-house suburbs of Missoula that increasingly fill the valley’s northern end, the US-93 roadside is lined by groves of cottonwood trees and occasional hamlets like Florence, where Glen’s Cafe (406/273-2534), tucked away just west of the highway, is renowned throughout Montana for its carb-loaded pancakes and incredibly good double-crusted fresh berry pies.

  South of Florence, a well-marked alternative route, the East Side Highway (Hwy-203 and Hwy-269), runs parallel to US-93 a half mile to the east, passing rolling ranch lands, pioneer homesteads—some of which are among the oldest in the state—and occasional prefab trailers. This side of the valley is mostly open countryside, with a few small hamlets like Stevensville, Montana’s oldest town. It was founded by Jesuits in 1841 around the still intact St. Mary’s Mission (daily in summer; $3; 406/777-5734), at the end of 4th Street, two blocks west of Main.