Equal parts jet-set glitz and multicultural grit, and with more than half its population coming here from other countries around the globe, Miami (pop. 372,000) really embodies the transitive state of the nation at the beginning of the 21st century. Having sprung up from swampland in the 1920s, Miami has weathered hurricanes and race riots, real estate booms and busts, drug running and endless political intrigue to become one of America’s most energetic cities.
Approaching from Miami Beach past the cruise ship docks along the MacArthur Causeway, or the older and more leisurely Venetian Causeway, you experience the view of Miami made famous by Miami Vice—downtown towers rising above Biscayne Bay. West of downtown, Miami’s most engaging district is Little Havana, which focuses along SW 8th Street (aka “Calle Ocho”) between 12th and 16th Avenues. Since the 1950s and 1960s, when the first refugees fleeing Castro’s regime fetched up here, this neighborhood has been the heart of Cuban-American Miami. Hang out for a while with the old men who congregate in the Domino Park on 8th Street and 14th Avenue, or visit the Martyrs of Giron (aka Bay of Pigs) Monument along 8th Street between 12th and 13th Streets; you’ll definitely get a feel for it. Better yet, stop for something to eat or drink at one of Little Havana’s many great Cuban cafes, like La Esquina de Tejas (305/545-0337), at 101 SW 12th Avenue; or Casa Panza (305/643-5343), at 1620 SW 8th Street, which turns into a lively dance club on Tuesday and Thursday nights. To watch the power brokers at work, try Versailles (305/444-0240), at 3555 SW 8th Street, and enjoy a bowl of ropa vieja (tender threads of garlicky beef in a black bean soup).
In downtown Miami, a fun place to stay is the characterful and historic Miami River Inn ($70–199; 305/325-0045), 118 SW South River Drive, a well-preserved circa-1908 hotel with B&B rooms (all with private baths). Miami Beach still has the best range of stylish hotels, but Miami itself has the stunning Four Seasons ($250 and up; 305/358-3535) at 1435 Brickell Avenue, offering stunning views from a 70-story tower. Back down to earth, the major chains all have locations on the downtown waterfront; as at all South Florida accommodations, room rates tend to increase considerably during the peak season (Jan.–April).
The Florida Marlins (305/930-4487) play at Pro Player Stadium, 2267 NW 199th Street.
The best source of information on greater Miami, including Miami Beach, is the Greater Miami visitors bureau (305/539-3063 or 800/283-2707) at 701 Brickell Avenue.
