Continuing south on US-1, Key Largo blends into Islamorada (EYE-la-mo-RA-da), the self-proclaimed “Sportfishing Capital of the World,” where anglers from all over the world come to try their hands at catching the elusive, hard-fighting bonefish that dwell in the shallow saltwater “flats,” and the deep-sea tarpon, marlin, and sailfish. Though now famous for its fishing and fun-in-the-sun, Islamorada (which means “purple island”) used to be synonymous with death and destruction: On September 2, 1935, a huge tsunami, whipped up by 200-mile-per-hour hurricane winds, drowned over 400 refugees trying to escape on what turned out to be the last train ever to travel along the old Florida East Coast Railway. Most of the dead were WW I veterans, members of the “Bonus Army” who had marched on Washington, D.C., in 1934 and had been given jobs working to build the Overseas Highway. A stone pillar at the south end of Islamorada, along US-1 at MM 81.6, was erected by the WPA to remember the event.
At the center of Islamorada sits one of the older tourist traps in south Florida: the Theater of the Sea (daily; $25; 305/664-2431), at MM 84.5, a funky, friendly place where you can watch performing sea animals or even swim with dolphins.
Islamorada is also home to two of the plushest accommodation options in the Keys. The large and prominent Checca Lodge ($200 and up; 305/664-4651 or 800/327-2888) has 200 spacious rooms, two pools, a pier, a palm-lined beach, and a golf course at MM 82.5. Harder to find, but delightful, The Moorings ($150 and up; 305/664-4242) is on the ocean side of MM 81.5 at 123 Beach Road. The Moorings is an idyllic and much-loved retreat, with 18 self-sufficient wooden cottages on 18 acres, alongside a beautiful 1,100-foot white sand beach.
The Moorings also has a nice restaurant, Morada Bay, serving urbane renditions of traditional Key favorites on US-1 at MM 81.6. For a more down-to-earth taste of the Keys, try the nearby Green Turtle Inn, or the waterfront dive known as Papa’s Joe’s (305/664-8109), a popular bar and fish restaurant at the southern tip of Islamorada (MM 79.7) that has good food, cold beers, and incredible sunset views.
For more information on Islamorada, stop by the little red caboose (at MM 82.5) that holds the visitors bureau (305/664-4503 or 800/322-5397). Outside, in the parking lot, informational plaques tell the story of the ill-fated railroad that became the Overseas Highway.
