Across the river from Hanover and Dartmouth, turn-of-the-20th-century White River Junction (pop. 2,582) used to echo with the sounds of some 50 trains a day traveling over six separate rail lines. The demise of the railroads and arrival of the Interstate cloverleaf on the outskirts of town effectively mothballed the downtown area, but like good vintage clothing, the photogenic historic center has been rediscovered by an art-smart crowd that doesn’t mind the holes and missing buttons.
Freight trains still rumble through White River Junction a few times a day, and Amtrak stops here on its mainline Vermonter route along the Connecticut River between New York City and Montreal. Apart from the trains, the main signs of life here are at breakfast and lunch, when the ancient-looking Polka Dot Diner (daily 5 am–7 pm; 802/295-9722) at 7 N. Main Street serves the usual unpretentious, inexpensive grilled and fried foods. Or try the delicious fresh pastries and croissants that come out of the Baker’s Studio (802/296-7201), a 30-second walk away from the Polka Dot at 7 S. Main Street.
If you’re looking for lodging with more character than the chain motels (Super 8, etc.) along the interstates, consider downtown’s Hotel Coolidge ($65/night, $225/week; 802/295-3118 or 800/622-1124) at 39 S. Main Street. In business since the 1920s, it has a nice café downstairs, an opera house next door, and is clean, friendly, and definitely good value. Even better value are their HI-hostel bunks, which go for around $20.
