Some people avoid New York City like the plague, but seven million others can’t bear to leave the glorious buzzing mosaic that makes New York unique in the world. Love it or hate it, New York is New York, and this great metropolis is undeniably the capital of the capitalist world, with some of the best museums, the best shops, the best sights, and the best restaurants in the world.
There’s not much point in our recommending a select few of New York’s huge spectrum of attractions, so we’ll get straight to offering some practical help. For drivers, to whom all roads must seem to converge upon—and become gridlocked in—New York City, there are a number of semi-painless ways to deal with the city without driving miles out of the way, or driving yourself mad. The best way to experience New York in passing is on I-95; this gives you a brief glimpse of the city’s gritty glamour and a distant view of Manhattan’s spires to the south.
If you value your sanity and your shock absorbers, park your car in a long-term lot (not on the streets; city parking regulations are arcane and the fines huge) and walk or take public transportation. New York’s subway system, one of the most extensive in the world, is relatively safe and usually the fastest way to get around town; it’s also inexpensive ($2 per ride, or $7 a day, payable via electronic Metrocard). City buses are generally slower, but you see more of the sights. Taxis are ubiquitous—except when you want one.
The key to a successful visit to New York City is finding a place to stay. Ideally, you’ll have an expense account, a friend, or a rich aunt, but lacking that, here are a few suggestions, most in the low-to-moderate range. It’s hard to beat the Holiday Inn ($150 and up; 212/966-8898) at 138 Lafayette Street for convenience, as it’s equidistant from Chinatown, Little Italy, SoHo, and TriBeCa. For families, another good option is the Embassy Suites ($199 and up; 212/945-0100) at Battery Park City, 102 North End Avenue, with views of the Statue of Liberty. The least expensive place in town is the very large and popular HI New York Hostel (212/932-2300), on the Upper West Side at 891 Amsterdam Avenue at 103rd Street, with private rooms (around $70) plus dorm beds for $25 a night. One of the many fabulous hotels in New York City is the small but stylish Morgan’s ($250 and up; 212/686-0300) at 237 Madison Avenue.
Eating out is another way to blow a lot of money very quickly, but there are some great places where you can get both a good meal and a feel for New York without going bankrupt. One such place is Katz’s Delicatessen (212/254-2246), 205 E. Houston Street, a Lower East Side landmark that’s been serving up man-sized sandwiches (including great pastrami) “since 1888.” (For movie buffs, Katz’s is where Meg Ryan did her famous fake-orgasm scene in When Harry Met Sally.) And if you like diners, check out the Empire Diner (212/243-2736), at 210 10th Avenue at 22nd Street in the Chelsea neighborhood—all black enamel and gleaming stainless steel, and open 24 hours, 7 days a week. The well-prepared food is the usual burgers and meat loaf, etc., enlivened by frequent live jazz. There are dozens of world-class restaurants in Gotham City, but at least one serves excellent food in stylish surroundings without breaking the bank: On the Upper East Side, between the Metropolitan and Whitney museums, Michelin-starred chef Daniel Boulud serves up exquisitely prepared French bistro fare at his Cafe Boulud (212/772-2600), 20 E. 76th Street. The ever-changing menu features a wide variety of traditional favorites and contemporary inventions, available for lunch and dinner at (comparatively) moderate prices. It’s very popular, so make reservations as soon as you can.