Between Twin Mountain (at the junction of US-302 and US-3) and where US-3 merges with I-93, you’ll find the aging face of the area’s long association with tourism: a variety of motel courts and “housekeeping cottages” at least as old as you are. Despite their outward dowdiness, several make a virtue of the rustic, but given their prime location most are hardly the bargains you might hope for. More interesting and historic lodging may be had on a 200-acre working farm in Franconia (pop. 811), where, since 1899, the friendly Sherburn family’s Pinestead Farm Lodge, on Route 116 south of town, has offered simple rooms and warm hospitality at reasonable rates ($50 and up with shared bath and kitchen; 603/823-8121).
Also dating back to the same early-1800s era is The Homestead ($75 and up; 603/823-5564 or 800/823-5564), a country inn just west of Franconia on Route 117 in Sugar Hill. The township is aptly named: The sugarbush (a grove of sugar maples) on Hildex Maple Sugar Farm, also on Route 117, contributes its unforgettable essence to breakfasts at the very popular Polly’s Pancake Parlor. Polly’s is located in the farm’s thrice-expanded 1830 carriage shed (open weekends only April–mid-May and late Oct., daily rest of the year; 603/823-5575). Warning: After trying real maple syrup, you may never be able to go back to Aunt Jemima’s or Mrs. Butterworth’s again.
The most famous farm in the vicinity is certainly the Frost Place (Sat.–Sun. 1–5 pm Memorial Day–June, Wed.–Mon. 1–5 pm July–Columbus Day; $3; 603/823-5510) on Route 116 south of the Franconia village intersection. Besides the 1.5-mile Poetry Trail and the displays of Robert Frost memorabilia from his 11-year residency here, there’s a regular program of readings by the current poet-in-residence.